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A bean stew with beet salad for a cold night

Things have been quiet around here recently. The last couple of months have been quite an unexpected roller coaster here in the Wrightfood household, and frankly I haven’t had much interest in blogging to be honest. Thankfully, things are starting to look exceedingly good for us, which has also meant that thankfully my passion for food has returned a bit.

On the cards these days is simple, fast, tasty food. The kind of food that you can whack a lot of flavor into in the space of 15 minutes, but yet it still has a subtle clean elegance to it, even if it is a rustic pot-o-beans.

This bean stew is the kind of thing you eat on a cold night curled up in front of Fashion Police (hands down the best show on TV at the moment). Don’t pretend you are too intelectual for that show. You aren’t. No one is. Funny is funny, especially when potty mouth Joan Rivers is involved.

The whole dish takes about 15 minutes if you have some beans cooked already, or you crack open a can of em. If you were really darn good you might be able to get this thing made in a commercial break.

It was a couple of weeks ago now that I was really hankering after a bowl of clams, steamed in white wine with leeks. Leeks are one of my go to vegetables for all things from the sea, especially those things coming in small shells. The problem I had however wasn’t the lack of leeks or wine (oh please, seriously?) but rather the lack of shellfish. Any fish of that matter. I turned my attention to the pantry (or drawer really..) and found a can of cannellini beans. “Well” I thought “this is worth a go”. Turns out thankfully I didn’t waste a leek, or a can of beans, or heaven forbid some wine. What you get is that lovely rich boozy allium flavor I love, but without any shells to deal with. One cannot argue with that.

Honestly, when you think about it, pretty much anything cooked in butter with leeks and wine is not going to suck. The trick here is really just to have everything done fast enough so you don’t miss out on “bitch stole my look” (go look it up).

The raw beet salad was honestly an afterthought, and one originally just designed to add some color to a rather anemic looking dish. Turns out the tartness of the salad goes great with the rich flavor of the bean stew.

This has fast become my go-to dinner when I want something quick and hearty. Paired with a green salad you honestly cannot go wrong for an evening on the couch.

Bean Stew with Raw Beet Salad Recipe

NOTE: Home cooked beans do work best in this recipe, however honestly I rarely make them these days – I seem to always think of beans at the last minute, and have no time to cook em

1 can of white beans – Cannellini is what I use, drained
1 leek
1 clove of garlic
1 good sized glass of dry white wine
butter – at least 3 tablespoons
salt and pepper

1 smallish beet
small handfull of parsley and chives
juice of half a lemon
olive oil – about 2 tablespoons
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To make the beet salad: julienne the beet finely. I personally use a mandolin with a julienne blade for this. Finely chop the parsley and chives. Whisk the lemon juice and olive oil together. Mix in the beets and herbs. Finally season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the mean stew: Cut off the roots of the leek, and peel off (and discard) the outer layer of the leak. Cut the leak half way through lengthwise, and wash out any grit inside. Slice the leek finely across. Don’t use the darkest green section. Saute this leek in a couple of tablespoons of butter until soft – about 5 minutes or so. Crush the garlic clove and add to the leek – cook for another minute. Add the beans to the leek pan and turn up the heat. Pour in the white wine, and let reduce bubbling away for a couple of minutes. If the mixture looks a bit dry, add more butter.

When the beans are heated through and everything seems nicely combined, season generously with salt and pepper. Spoon the beans in to a bowl and top with a nice mound of the beet salad. Get stuck in right away with a glass of whatever you poured into the beans, a side salad, and a snarky TV fashion show.

smoked squash, herb marinated feta, garlic dressing

I don’t do a lot of smoking. I won a smoker a few years back for a photo of some meat, and guess what – I never used it. It stayed in garage, unopened in the box. Well, honestly, that was mainly because it was one of those that used these dicey pellets of reformed wood and with me being the hippy that I am I didn’t want to smoke my food with a bunch of unknown substances that hold that reformed wood together. I imagined it to be kinda like smoking food using MDF. Nah, not for me.

get this smoked squash recipe after the jump

beets with creme fraiche and other stuff..

Beets are my favorite root vegetable. My favorite to grow in our back yard, and my favorite to chow down on come the cooler months. They have, I have to say, been one of our great successes in the yard. We aren’t experienced gardeners, especially when it comes to vegetables. Many things have died from either our neglect or over attention, but beets have never been one of them. The seeds we sowed this year even survived a ridiculously wet spring and early summer that left most of our other crops bait for slugs. Each year we grow a couple of different varieties, some golden, some of the standard red ones and my personal favorite the chioggia beet. The chioggia is hands down the prettiest beet in the patch. I love how they look simple and beetish in the ground. You pick them and the slightly more red/orange root still looks like a standard beet, albeit a slightly odd colored one. But once you cut in to one raw and see the magnificent strips of brightly colored flesh you are sold. Unfortunately they loose some of that when cooked, however – which just means they should be eaten raw more often. For some reason it always reminds me of cutting in to a watermelon radish, a similar spectacular display of colors and patterns.

get more beets after the jump

roasted peppers, millet with apricots, raisins, hazelnuts and toasted spices

It is about this time of year that I start doing quite a lot with locally grown peppers. They crop up at the farmers markets everywhere and it is pretty much impossible to walk through without picking up at least one bag. Over the years I have started to stray away from the usual red bell peppers, in search of more interesting shapes and colors. I actively hunt out the odd looking ones. Those deformed ones seem to have more character and I think they taste better to boot – or maybe just photograph with more charm..

Click to read more of this roasted pepper recipe

a simple pot of beans

As I start getting old in my years, I am starting to realize there are two things that you shouldn’t mess with. The first is your mother-in-law, and the second is a pot beans. I am not even going to go there with the first – I happen to have a great MIL, so no worries there. The pot of beans is a far more complex issue anyhow (not calling the MIL “simple” you understand) because it needs subtly, which as we all know mother-in-laws can never have (hi Nell!)…

Beans are a favorite of mine, not just because they go so darn well with pork. Oh, and lamb to that point too. Beans have the ability to soak up so much flavor from whatever they are cooked in, yet remain delicate and individually nuanced if you want them to be.

get more beans after the jump

breakfast

“You need to eat more protein” said my naturopath, “preferably at breakfast” she added. Being honest, I wasn’t totally surprised. My breakfasts recently had been cereal mixed with nuts and apples, covered in yogurt (Grace Harbor Farms for the world!). Looks like there is less protein in yogurt than I figured.

To some readers of this blog, that might be a shock. Given that my world the last couple of years has revolved around cured meat, pig and fish. This might be a tall order to expect you to believe this, but I honestly don’t eat much meat. In fact, a lot of the stuff I cure I give away. So, with all this in mind I set about coming up with a few fast breakfasts that revolved around my number 1 favorite food.

Eggs.

Click to read more about my favorite breakfast

celery root remoulade

Some things are so classic, so perfectly right as they are that it seems like a total disgrace to “reinvent” them. There is a reason some dishes have been around for a long time, on and off restaurant menu’s, but always there. There is a tricky knife edge here though. You can fall one way in to classic stardom of a recipe – something so good, so simple that it should never be changed. A quick shake on the edge however and things can fall drastically apart. The dish can be flat, boring, dated.

(more…)

Roast baby turnips, guanciale, fines herbs

The poor old turnip gets a bad rap. It always seems to get out classed by other winter root vegetables (back off rutabaga’s..) and never quite ever gets seen as the star of the show. Half of the problem I think for us Brit’s was its association with Baldrick (NOTHING is ever going to be cool if associated with Baldrick) from the incredibly funny Blackadder TV series. From there it was just downhill for this sweet tasting white globe. I personally prefer the smaller, or “baby” turnips. I think they are sweeter, and more delicate. Just like me.

Click to see and read more and to get this turnip recipe

chickpea, chanterelle, local black truffle

There are some dishes, quite a lot of dishes in fact, that I cook and never think twice about blogging the recipe for. In my mind they are too simple, too “everyday” and have no cured meat element to them!

Sod that I thought one day however. This is how I like to eat. Simple food, quality ingredients, honest cooking. If there can be a shed load of butter involved, than this makes it all the more reason to talk about it, no?

My favorite way of appeasing the hungry vegetarian in our household (Danika) is to cook up a variety of small plates most nights, depending on what is in the fridge or the garden. Typically I will muster together four little dishes, generally including some kind of green salad, and for me just add in some fish or meat. I am finding this vegetarian thing of her’s super fun. Whether I will in the dead of winter will be another matter, but right now it is enjoyable, creative and fun.

Click to get this chickpea recipe and read more

rustic modern sofrito

I had this post almost typed up and for some reason WordPress thought it would be funny not to save it. Quite frankly, and being honest with myself, that isn’t such a bad thing – it was a little dry. Lets see if it, like everything else, is better the second time around..

Sofrito is a very slow cooked mixture of finely chopped tomatoes, onions and garlic. This all gets slowly cooked in olive oil until reduced, caramelized and very flavorful. Bell peppers are often added in to the mix as well – but a classic sofrito is just those aromatics mentioned above.

The last time I did a sofrito was about this time a year ago and it took for bloody ever. The whole deal took about 5 hours – course most of that was cooking and drinking time, which is never all that bad – but it took a while. Typically sofrito is used as a rich flavoring component, and not something featured on its own. Last year I used it in a halibut and bean recipe, which was one of my more favorite things I have ever cooked. Honestly, that is most likely because of the sofrito, and after cooking it for so long I was sure as heck gonna enjoy it.

So once again fate happened, and I ended up with a bunch of tomatoes and bell peppers, wondering what to do with them. I thought of sofrito again – the first time in a while. Then I hit myself in the head with a pan, just for thinking of a building block that takes ages to make given my hectic schedule. Now, I never like to let a pan get the better of me, so I started thinking of sofrito again – this time out in the garden, away from anything I could bludgeon myself with.

Click to get this sofrito recipe and see more pictures!

Indian sweet and sour chickpeas, spinach roti

Being British I am genetically disposed to Indian food. I am also ridiculously snooty about Indian food. Outside of India, I reckon that England could quite possibly be the best place to pick up some fantastic authentic Indian nosh.

Being this snooty about it doesn’t make eating out in Seattle for Indian food fun. Not that much. Not for my incredibly patient wife, who has to listen to my food rants, and not for my taste buds either. The first time I went to an Indian restaurant here in Seattle, I got the worst food poisoning I have ever had, and spent three days in the smallest room in the house, kneeling, cursing the seafood mixed grill.

Click to read more, and get the chickpea curry recipe

The garden with a mix of fire

I thought I might just pop in a photography post this week – a few shots of our little vegetable garden, which I reckon is coming along nicely. Course, that all seems a little too nice, polite and pretty.. so lets through in some fire too (grilled gluten free pizza). Jolly good show.

Happy summer everyone!

Click to see more of our vegetable garden photos!

Savoy Cabbage and Caper Salad

Savoy Cabbage Salad recipe

Cabbage is not the sexiest thing to blog about. The whole group of vegetables that fall under the cabbage genus (is it a genus? I am guessing so) just conjure up images that are rather unappealing and the best of times.

My memories of cabbage really aren’t that good to be honest. The British have quite a history assaulting this group of plants, and quite honestly a lot of it could quite easily fall under the “war crimes” category, for it is that bad. I remember going over for Sunday lunch at my Grandparents a few times a year. Generally my grandmother was a great cook, she could knock a roast dinner like nobodies business. Cabbage however was another thing. The cabbage got boiled. Boiled for a very, very long time. “Fall apart tender” would be one polite description that could be used.

Click to see this cabbage salad recipe

Roast Potatoes & sauce Gribiche

Roast Potato Recipe

There is, in my opinion, only one way to roast a potato, and that is this one.

I can make such a statement without sounding like an arrogant berk simply because this particular method of roasting potatoes is far from something I have conjured up in that odd British brain of mine. Instead it is something that almost everyone growing up in England (who has an interest in cooking) has learned to prepare. Variations exist, of course they do, and they are often hotly debated – the same way people get all heated over the most “authentic” bouliabaise or cassoulet.

Arguments erupt over potato choice. Fat choice. Cooking temperature. Cooking method. Roasting pan type and even basting method. I have probably cooked this style of potato close to 200 times, using all the variables above, and settled on one method – and almost regimental method at that.

Click to see this roast potato recipe

Lake Erie Yellow Perch, Mussels, leeks and tomato stew

It is winter here in Seattle. I have no idea if I can “technically” call it that yet, but when it gets down to 34F in the day time this not-so-hardy Englishman calls winter well and truly. Trees are bare, frost is on the ground, and I can now use my deck as as second fridge if I really need to. Yep. Winter is here.

Winter for me means hearty warm soups, stews, braises. Often enough this means meat, but in my mind fish should certainly not get relegated during these cold months. Take mussels for instance. Our local Penn Cove mussels are pretty great all year round, but even better during the winter. The colder water makes for a better tasting, sweeter mussel. I have to say, it is pretty hard to top a steaming hot bowl of mussels mariniere and some crusty bread on a cold day. Of course, if this is too light for your tastes, put some creme fraiche into the deal if you must.

Click to see this fish stew recipe