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Home made blood sausage

This blood sausage sort of just happened. It wasn’t long ago when I was flicking through the River Cottage Cookbook I happened to see a blood sausage recipe or three. My first thought was “wow, I haven’t had blood sausage in ages”. My second was “yep, there was a reason for that”.

As with almost everything not all blood sausage is created equal. I remember eating some in motorway (freeway to the Yanks) greasy spoons that should never be served.. especially considering that people are then often locked in their cars with no quick access to a bathroom 30 minutes down the road..

So there the idea sat in my brain for a while. Thinking about how I could make a blood sausage that I would like. One that would be worth risking covering our kitchen in pigs blood, for I heard making blood sausage was a mite messy. The more I thought about it, the more I realized that I couldn’t remember what it tasted like. I think the last I had was 18 years ago in England and that one would certainly be a contender for the story above.

Some research yielded interesting results. Some people would add ground pork the mix – making it more like a regular sausage. “blood sausage for pansies” I call that. The other (and majority) or the recipes I have seen call for mixing blood with cream, and adding some soft carbs to act as a binder. In England that would generally be bread or oats. In Spain it is more often than not rice. Diced fat back is also added, along with a variety of spices to obliterate “compliment” the blood taste.

Given I have a gluten intolerant wife, I decided to go the rice route. This happened to be rather fortunate since the recipes I saw for the classic Spanish blood sausage “morcilla” seemed to be the most palatable – with onions, rice, smoked paprika traditionally being used.

Perhaps the strangest turn of events is that my near vegetarian wife, Danika, wanted a piece of the blood sausage makin’, along with my usual partner in charcuterie crime, Becky. It turns out to be pretty handy having 3 people around to make blood sausage, especially if you want a few photos along the way (thank Danika for the in progress shots!).

I should mention how bloody hard (badum pum.. that one was for the cheap seats folks) it is to find pigs blood. Thankfully I live in Seattle. Given the amount of earthy food loving hippies that like to use every part of an animal (I am one of those), within 20 minutes of Facebooking that I was looking for pigs blood I got a ton of responses giving phone numbers and contact details of people that might be able to help. In the end a phone call to my butcher of choice Russ, over at Rainshadow meats just happened to have some in the freezer. I got numbers of people keeping pigs that might go to slaughter soon. I got the number for the mobile slaughter unit that visits local farms here (so animals from small farms can be slaughtered properly, to USDA guidelines with little stress to the animal).

Back to the recipe. This is based off a morcilla recipe in the River Cottage cookbook. I have made a few adjustments however, just for our own personal tastes. The sausage has blood, cream, onions, pork back fat, rice, raisins, sherry and paprika in it. I chose to caramelize the onions for 3 hours in a big old bath of olive oil, to get some great rich onion flavor in there, and a bit of sweetness. The sherry was a grand idea too (not mine, twas in the recipe) – a medium sherry was used and gave a good bite to the sausage.

I really implore anyone to give this a go. It is super easy, kinda fun and the results will surprise you. I would say that I considered 80% of the blood sausage I have ever had to be inedible, but this one I really enjoyed. It is richer than the bastard child of Donald Trump and Bill Gates (haven’t quite worked out the biology of that one) – one or two slices is enough for me, but is very enjoyable none the less.

Here is a quick serving suggestion – serve this cold, sliced reasonably thickly. Drizzle a little olive oil and decent sherry vinegar over. Some salt, finely diced parsley and things are looking pretty good. The vinegar helps cut the richness, the extra salt gives a little zing.

Blood Sausage Recipe (Spanish Morcilla recipe)

NOTE: A sausage stuffer isn’t used to stuff this sausage, since the mixture is very loose before cooking. Instead, buy a large soda bottle, empty it and cut the base off it. You can now tie the sausage casing on to the neck of the bottle, and ladle in your blood sausage mixture. Use a chopstick to help push the chunks of fat and raisins through the neck if needed.

20fl oz pigs blood – fresh or frozen

5 fl oz heavy cream

10 oz finely diced onions

10 oz pork back fat – finely diced (1/8th inch dice)

1/2 cup cooked bomba rice

scant 1 cup of raisins

1 tbs salt (for sausage)

1/2 tsp black pepper

1/4 wine glass of medium-dry sherry

1 tablespoon bittersweet smoked Spanish paprika

hogs casings – 6ft of them – soaked overnight in cold water

large plastic soda bottle, empty, clean, with the base cut off.

put the diced onions and 1/2 cup of olive oil in a large pan. And a pinch of salt and cook gently over a low flame for 3 hours – stirring every 30 minutes. The onions should be deeply caramelized. This can be done a few days ahead of time if required – store the onions in their oil in the fridge.

If the blood is frozen, allow to defrost in the fridge overnight.

Soak the raisins in hot water for 20 minutes to soften. Drain water.

Put the blood in a blender. Blend it. Pretend it is huckleberry juice or something, if that helps. Strain the blood in to a bowl. This will help remove any clots.

Drain the cooked onions, reserving the oil for salad dressings and so on.

Add all of the other ingredients to the bowl of blood (not the casings). Mix very well.

Rinse the casings out thoroughly with water. Tie one end of the casing tightly with string, leaving a long tail of string. Cut the casing in to a 14″ length. Stretch the open end over the neck of the plastic bottle. Tie this in place with some string.

Whilst constantly mixing the blood mixture (making sure all the good stuff doesn’t sink to the bottom) ladle the mix in to the plastic bottle. Use a chopstick to gently tease the lumps of fat and raisins through the neck of the bottle and in to the sausage.

Cut the sausage casing off the bottle, and tie off the other end of the casing with the tail of string left from the other end – you are essentially forming a loop.

Bring a large pot of water to about 170F. Gently lower the blood sausage in to the hot water. Poach the sausage for about 30 minutes. Prick the casing in a few spots if you see any air bubbles under the casing. It is a good idea to prick the casing in a few spots after 10 minutes of cooking – just to help let some of the pressure out.

After 30 minutes, prick the sausage again. If the blood that comes out is brown, not red the sausage is cooked.

Cool immediately in ice water, then store tightly wrapped in the fridge until needed.


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18 Responses to “Home made blood sausage”

  1. While we’ve done away with the casing for Filipino dinuguan (pork blood stew), I sorely miss the wonderful Eastern European kishka that I used to buy regularly in Minneapolis. Your morcilla looks beyond delicious and reading your recipe, I actually feel capable of making it! 8-)

  2. zenchef says:

    Matt, what a fantastic post! I had boudin noir just last week at “Le Comptoir du Relais”, a fantastic little bistro in Paris and still dream about it. Yours looks just like the one i had. Perfection. The day i open a bistro i want to feature ‘Matt Wright’s charcuterie’ on the menu. Seriously.

  3. Amazing! You make it look so easy! I just got the book Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Bryan Polcyn this winter… I find charcuterie facinating and now I’m just mustering up the guts to try it out myself!

  4. This is one of the thousand things I still have to make before I die… The Spanish morcilla I know (and I’m from Spain) uses a lot less pork meat and a lot more rice. In fact the rice and the blood are the only things you make out when you cut into it. But I tell you that a slice of good morcilla fried in extra virgin olive oil is something not to be missed. And it’s so nice to leave in an area where you have all those nasty bits around…

  5. absolutly gorgeous, I love this and your recipe is very yummy and tasty
    very beautiful pics too
    Delphine

  6. Lauren says:

    This reminds me of a morcilla i had the pleasure of eating at a local spanish restaurant… making me salivate! Great blog by the way :)

  7. Alex says:

    Next time hit up an asian market, if you want to make it again. Pasteurized pigs blood is sold in smallish containers (smaller than a 500g yogurt tub, but bigger than a 250g tub). Lots of people use blood in cooking, particularly Thais and Filipinos.

  8. Alex says:

    Also, as a veterinarian, if that blood hasn’t been pasteurized, please wear gloves until it’s cooked. Pigs have a lot of diseases that can be transmissible to humans, and it’s just not worth it.

  9. Alice says:

    I haven’t had this in awhile after I went back to my country (Ecuador) and saw the whole process of how it’s made. We usually do a soup called “Caldo de Salchicha” maybe try to look for an Ecuadorian recipe, so you can do the soup of blood sausage.

    Happy Eating

  10. For some reason I was under the impression that frozen blood wouldn’t work for blood sausage. Glad to see that’s not the case; it’ll open up more options as to where to get it!

  11. Scary, but tasty :) Please share with us over at dishfolio.com!

  12. mattwright says:

    Alex – thanks for info about pasteurization – I hadn’t thought of that. As far as Asian markets go – I know quite a lot get pigs blood from sources that I personally don’t consider sustainable and offer high quality animal welfare, otherwise yes – that would certainly be an option.

  13. TonyM says:

    Just getting into some Charcuterie etc myself. Where is the best place to get some thick Pork Back Fat? Just finished building my curing chamber “old freezer” and ready to go!

    Thanks from West Seattle!

  14. mattwright says:

    your best bet in Seattle for thick pork fat is either Rainshadow Meats, or a visit to the farmers markets and talk to Skagit River Ranch.

  15. Very interesting. In san francisco we can find it here and there. usually a euro deli.
    But i have to tell you the tastiest i’ve found was in italy, siena actually, and it was in an old market shop, and it was called Burristo (sp). i haven’t tried the spanish, but the idea of gluten free is intruiging. As for the german, there were various kinds and all seemed ok. But that Burristo was something special. Not all butchers had it and some would tell you to get out, as in Reprimand.

    thanks.

  16. You just hit my soft-spot for blood sausage. I couldn’t get enough of them in Spain, but also adore the Korean glutenous-rice variety too. Smoked Spanish paprika and blood is a match-made in piggy heaven.

  17. laurie says:

    Speaking from experience dealing with a lot of whole animals and their requisite bits in a commercial kitchen, I don’t think that the blood or any other organ is any riskier than the meat itself. Mind you if you are buying dodgy meat, I probably wouldn’t be asking for its blood. Nice site.

  18. mattwright says:

    Laurie – I totally agree with you.